Brown Sugar Pumpkin Pie

I have made this pie twice in one week. I had extra pumpkin, yes, but it really is fantastic. It's veering into the 'much too much' category for me-ultra rich, ultra sweet- but my roommate is in love. Maybe you will be too.

The recipe comes from Bon Appetit's Thanksgiving issue from 2009, and I've made no modifications. You can find the recipe here.

It looks much more elaborate than the Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie, but is actually much less involved (no cooking of the filling pre-baking).

Start by making the streusel-y topping (chopped walnuts-though you could definitely swap these for other nuts-pecans, hazelnuts, even almonds would be nice, brown sugar, cinnamon and a touch of salt):

Roll out your pastry and fit into the pie shell, decorating the edges if you like. Compare this shell (made while watching Waitress and drinking beer) with second version, where I was all neat and fancy with triangle cut outs. Remember the risks of distracted baking.

The shell is then blind baked with pie weights/pennies/beans to hold its shape.

You can easily prepare the filling by hand or by mixer, simply by combining the brown sugar, spices, eggs, pumpkin purée and heavy cream.

Fill your shell and bake until filling is jiggly but the top has set. Cover with brown sugar/nut mixture and continue to bake until the filling is puffed and topping has browned.

It can be served at room temperature or cold, and goes best with cinnamon whipped cream.

Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie

Gourds are taking over. They're everywhere-decoratively perched outside of otherwise soulless corporate supermarkets, overflowing at farmer's markets, begging you to pick them at local farms. There's something romantic about making pumpkin pie with the flesh of a pumpkin you picked, roasted, and scooped out its innards with your very own hands. But it is seriously not worth the hassle, get the canned stuff.

For one thing, the giant jack-o-lantern pumpkins that make up the bulk of these kitschy displays do not a good pie make. If you insist on a truly DIY pie, go for the smaller pie pumpkins. But it's messy, inconsistent and time intensive compared to readily available canned or frozen pumpkin purée which will produce better results in most cases.

Canned pumpkin purée served me well in this year's Canadian Thanksgiving pie making endeavor. See last year's here. I went for a sour cream pumpkin pie recipe from Gourmet Today, which nicely cut the sweetness of the pumpkin and gave a bit of welcome tang.

Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie

For the crust:

• 1 1/4 cups flour
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
• 3-4 tbsp ice water

Mix flour and salt in a large bowl and cut the butter in with a pastry cutter, a couple knives, a food processor or a stand mixer (I've had good results with this, just make sure the butter is really cold). You want small pea sized lumps of butter-the idea is not to cream but to leave these lumps which will turn into glorious flaky pastry. Add in just enough water so your dough comes together, and divide into 4 portions (this next step I hadn't done before and am not sure it made a huge difference, but if Gourmet says so...). On a lightly floured surface, smear each portion forward with the heel of your hand. This helps distribute the fat. Once completed or skipped, gather all the dough into a ball, flatten into a 5-inch disk and wrap and refrigerate at least one hour. I usually make the dough a day ahead to save time. It also freezes well.

When you are ready to roll out your dough, lightly flour your surface or place the dough between two sheets of parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375˚. Trying to keep it as cool as possible, roll out your dough until it will fit a 9-inch pie plate. Because pumpkin pie has a custard filling, the crust is blind-baked (pre-baked sans filling). Once you fit the dough into the pie plate and decoratively crimp the edges to your liking, prick all over with a fork and fill with pie weights, dried beans or even pennies (make sure you line your pastry shell with foil first).

Using a pyrex pie dish is the best way to check in on browning. Bake your shell approximately 20 minutes with the weights in, and an additional 10 without, until pale golden. Cool completely.

Meanwhile, get to work on your filling:

• 1 1/2 cups sour cream
• 1 1/2 cups pumpkin
• 3 eggs, separated
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 3/4 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp ginger
• 1/4 tsp salt

Heat 1 cup of the sour cream (reserving 1/2 cup) in a large metal bowl set over a pot of boiling water until warm, stirring occasionally.

In another bowl, whisk together the pumpkin, egg yolks, brown sugar, spices, salt and reserved 1/2 cup of sour cream. Add to hot sour cream and cook over simmering water, stirring occasionally for about 6 minutes to thicken the custard.

Remove bowl from heat and cool in an ice water bath (in a larger bowl, or if you're out of larger bowls, the sink), stirring occasionally until cool.

Whisk egg whites with an electric mixer (difficult to do without) until they hold stiff peaks. Gently fold 1/3 of the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture and slowly incorporate the remaining whites.

Pour filling into your cooled shell and smooth the top (mine kind of overflowed, but it will all work out). Bake until filling is set and puffed around the edges, 40-50 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature and serve with whipped cream, dosed with cinnamon if you feel like getting fancy.

Freedom Pie

Inspired by the patriotic pies on the cover of the Martha Stewart Living and my American heritage, I pillaged the remaining rhubarb in the garden and I got baking.


The pastry is made just like this and with the help of some star-shaped cookie cutters. I know a lot of people are strawberry-rhubarb pie-hards but to me it is just too cliché and sickly sweet. The entire point of rhubarb is its tartness, in my opinion. It might not be to everyone's taste, but I have fond memories of dipping stalks into some sugar and gnawing away. This pie is that memory, grown-up and elevated.

Rhubarb Pie (adapted from Joy of Cooking)

• 2 lbs rhubarb stalks, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths, which should measure 5 cups (no metric for you on this 4th of July)
• 1 1/2 cups sugar + 2 tsp
  
• 1/4 cup tapioca or cornstarch (I generally use cornstarch but both work great)
• 2 tsp orange zest (optional but highly recommended)
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 2 tbsp butter
• Milk or cream

Preheat oven to 425˚.
Combine rhubarb with 1 1/2 cups of sugar, tapioca or cornstarch, zest and salt in a large bowl and let sit for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

It should go from this:


to this:


Spoon this filling into your prepared pie crust (again, see this post) and dot with butter before covering with a basic lattice, or this festive variation. You can even do a double crust with vents if you don't want to bother with the occasional frustration of lattice tops, although I think they are worth it. I'm including some photos of a previous plain-old lattice top rhubarb pie which in my mind also screams 'America', if that's what you're going for. Not such a bad idea to double the recipe as it keeps well and makes a nice breakfast.

Once your lattice or top of choice is affixed, brush with cream or milk and dust with sugar. You can crimp the edges with a fork or more creatively.

Bake at 425˚ for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 350˚ and bake 25-30 more minutes until crust is nicely browned and juices are bubbling. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Orphan Thanksgiving Dinner

Okay, so I'm not really an orphan. But as the dining hall lines thin and the university quiets over Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, it starts to feel that way. It doesn't really make sense to go home on a 3-day weekend and it would be nice to see my family, but missing out on a major food holiday is what hurts more. An entire turkey would have been a bit much, but this rolled pork loin stuffed with an autumnal stuffing was a festive and showy alternative.

Pork Loin Rolled With Apricot, Prune & Walnut Stuffing (serves 4)

• Pork loin, approx 800 g (my dad's original calls for a tenderloin but I bought this instead)
• 2/3 cup dried apricots, chopped fine
• 2/3 cup prunes, chopped fine
• 1/2 cup walnut crumbs
• 4 shallots, minced
  
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp oil - walnut, olive or canola
• 2 tsp honey
• 4 tbsp rum/Irish whiskey/port/sherry (I used Grand Marnier, but really, almost any booze)
• 1/2 tsp dry thyme
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 2 slices bacon

1. Preheat oven to 375˚. Start by butterflying the meat so it lays flat at 1/4" thickness. I had never butterflied before but it's not so hard. I recommend subscribing to the Cook's Illustrated podcast on iTunes and watching the Grilled Stuffed Pork Loin episode for instruction on butterflying. If you haven't been entirely even in your cutting, you can pound it to the desired thickness, laying the meat between to sheets of plastic wrap, or putting it in a ziploc and whacking it with a heavy skillet.


2. Cover chopped apricot and prunes with boiling water, let stand 5-10 minutes. Meanwhile, mince and gently sauté shallots and garlic in oil until they turn golden (do not brown). Combine drained fruits, walnuts, shallots & garlic, honey, liquor and dry spices in a bowl, stir and let sit a few minutes.


3. Spread stuffing evenly over the pork loin, leaving a bit of space at one end. Sprinkle on the leaves from 2 sprigs of rosemary, roll up the loin from the small end. Top with slices of bacon and remaining sprig of rosemary, and tie up with string/twine. Place on lipped baking sheet, and bake for 30 minutes.


4. To serve, remove strings, slice thinly and serve. Ideally you will not be using a paring knife, but it still turned out okay.


Glazed Carrots

• As many carrots as desired
• Generous piece of butter
• Pure maple syrup-the better the syrup the better this will be
  

1. Begin by steaming the carrots. We were short on pots and pans, so this was accomplished in the microwave (in a large microwave safe bowl, add about 1 tbsp water to cut and peeled carrots, cover with plastic wrap and microwave for approx 3 minutes).
2. In a large skillet, melt the butter and add maple syrup. Add carrots to the skillet and cook until a glaze forms, being sure to coat the carrots entirely.


Mashed potatoes

• Yukon gold potatoes (we did 5 largeish for 3 people)
• Butter
• Milk if desired

1. Peel potatoes and cut into uniformly sized sections. Boil and salt water, add potatoes and cook approx 25 minutes (use fork test to check doneness-you should get no resistance and they should almost start falling apart).
2. Drain water and turn heat to lowest setting. Using a potato masher, mash the potatoes to a uniform consistency. Add butter, a lot or a little as you are so inclined. I would recommend a lot. Taste frequently to determine if it needs more butter or possibly some milk. Serve.


Pumpkin pie post coming soon!