Brown Sugar Pumpkin Pie

I have made this pie twice in one week. I had extra pumpkin, yes, but it really is fantastic. It's veering into the 'much too much' category for me-ultra rich, ultra sweet- but my roommate is in love. Maybe you will be too.

The recipe comes from Bon Appetit's Thanksgiving issue from 2009, and I've made no modifications. You can find the recipe here.

It looks much more elaborate than the Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie, but is actually much less involved (no cooking of the filling pre-baking).

Start by making the streusel-y topping (chopped walnuts-though you could definitely swap these for other nuts-pecans, hazelnuts, even almonds would be nice, brown sugar, cinnamon and a touch of salt):

Roll out your pastry and fit into the pie shell, decorating the edges if you like. Compare this shell (made while watching Waitress and drinking beer) with second version, where I was all neat and fancy with triangle cut outs. Remember the risks of distracted baking.

The shell is then blind baked with pie weights/pennies/beans to hold its shape.

You can easily prepare the filling by hand or by mixer, simply by combining the brown sugar, spices, eggs, pumpkin purée and heavy cream.

Fill your shell and bake until filling is jiggly but the top has set. Cover with brown sugar/nut mixture and continue to bake until the filling is puffed and topping has browned.

It can be served at room temperature or cold, and goes best with cinnamon whipped cream.

Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie

Gourds are taking over. They're everywhere-decoratively perched outside of otherwise soulless corporate supermarkets, overflowing at farmer's markets, begging you to pick them at local farms. There's something romantic about making pumpkin pie with the flesh of a pumpkin you picked, roasted, and scooped out its innards with your very own hands. But it is seriously not worth the hassle, get the canned stuff.

For one thing, the giant jack-o-lantern pumpkins that make up the bulk of these kitschy displays do not a good pie make. If you insist on a truly DIY pie, go for the smaller pie pumpkins. But it's messy, inconsistent and time intensive compared to readily available canned or frozen pumpkin purée which will produce better results in most cases.

Canned pumpkin purée served me well in this year's Canadian Thanksgiving pie making endeavor. See last year's here. I went for a sour cream pumpkin pie recipe from Gourmet Today, which nicely cut the sweetness of the pumpkin and gave a bit of welcome tang.

Sour Cream Pumpkin Pie

For the crust:

• 1 1/4 cups flour
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
• 3-4 tbsp ice water

Mix flour and salt in a large bowl and cut the butter in with a pastry cutter, a couple knives, a food processor or a stand mixer (I've had good results with this, just make sure the butter is really cold). You want small pea sized lumps of butter-the idea is not to cream but to leave these lumps which will turn into glorious flaky pastry. Add in just enough water so your dough comes together, and divide into 4 portions (this next step I hadn't done before and am not sure it made a huge difference, but if Gourmet says so...). On a lightly floured surface, smear each portion forward with the heel of your hand. This helps distribute the fat. Once completed or skipped, gather all the dough into a ball, flatten into a 5-inch disk and wrap and refrigerate at least one hour. I usually make the dough a day ahead to save time. It also freezes well.

When you are ready to roll out your dough, lightly flour your surface or place the dough between two sheets of parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375˚. Trying to keep it as cool as possible, roll out your dough until it will fit a 9-inch pie plate. Because pumpkin pie has a custard filling, the crust is blind-baked (pre-baked sans filling). Once you fit the dough into the pie plate and decoratively crimp the edges to your liking, prick all over with a fork and fill with pie weights, dried beans or even pennies (make sure you line your pastry shell with foil first).

Using a pyrex pie dish is the best way to check in on browning. Bake your shell approximately 20 minutes with the weights in, and an additional 10 without, until pale golden. Cool completely.

Meanwhile, get to work on your filling:

• 1 1/2 cups sour cream
• 1 1/2 cups pumpkin
• 3 eggs, separated
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 3/4 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp ginger
• 1/4 tsp salt

Heat 1 cup of the sour cream (reserving 1/2 cup) in a large metal bowl set over a pot of boiling water until warm, stirring occasionally.

In another bowl, whisk together the pumpkin, egg yolks, brown sugar, spices, salt and reserved 1/2 cup of sour cream. Add to hot sour cream and cook over simmering water, stirring occasionally for about 6 minutes to thicken the custard.

Remove bowl from heat and cool in an ice water bath (in a larger bowl, or if you're out of larger bowls, the sink), stirring occasionally until cool.

Whisk egg whites with an electric mixer (difficult to do without) until they hold stiff peaks. Gently fold 1/3 of the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture and slowly incorporate the remaining whites.

Pour filling into your cooled shell and smooth the top (mine kind of overflowed, but it will all work out). Bake until filling is set and puffed around the edges, 40-50 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature and serve with whipped cream, dosed with cinnamon if you feel like getting fancy.

Blueberry Cobbler

It's finally here. After months of waiting, I got the call. If anything was going to shake me out of a sweaty summer cooking hiatus, it was this.

Thanks, Toronto Public Library. Thomas Keller's most recent tome claims to feature accessible and simple food. This is half true-there are some simple dishes to be certain but the majority call for ingredients and tools the average home cook won't have on hand. I can't pick up piment d'Espelette at the nearest grocery and my budget certainly won't allow for a blow torch right now, but I can dream.

In fact, I was so inspired by this beautifully composed book I chose to forgo sleep a few nights

ago for some late night baking. The blueberry cobbler seemed simple enough and I had all the ingredients on hand by some miracle.

Blueberry Cobbler

• 1 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp flour
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 6 tbsp / 3 oz / 3/4 of a stick/ 1/3 of a cup
• 1 cup + 1 tbsp sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 buttermilk (I substituted yogurt with no problem)
• 4 pints/8 cups blueberries (sacrilege-I used frozen and it worked out alright. But it's wildblueberry season in my lovely home province of Nova Scotia so I urge you to seek out the good stuff)
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon sugar

Heat oven to 350˚.

In a medium bowl sift or whisk together 1 3/4 cups flour with the baking powder and baking soda.

In a large bowl cream butter and 3/4 cup sugar (by hand or with stand mixer) until light and creamy-make sure butter has come to room temperature before you begin. Beat in the eggs (also at room temp) one at a time until incorporated. Add the flour mixture in 3 batches,

alternating with the buttermilk/yogurt added in 2 batches. Flour, buttermilk, flour, buttermilk, flour.

In yet another large bowl, mix the blueberries with 1/4 cup of sugar, 2 tbsp flour and the lemon zest. If using frozen berries there is no need to thaw before using. Spread berries evenly in an 11 inch square or 13 by 9 inch baking pan.

Spoon batter over the berries in clumps, leaving some space in between. Combine the

remaining 1 tbsp of sugar with the cinnamon and sprinkle over top.

Bake approximately 40 minutes, until berries are bubbling and the topping is golden brown.

Let stand at least 10 minutes before serving. For best results serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. It will keep for several days.

Freedom Pie

Inspired by the patriotic pies on the cover of the Martha Stewart Living and my American heritage, I pillaged the remaining rhubarb in the garden and I got baking.


The pastry is made just like this and with the help of some star-shaped cookie cutters. I know a lot of people are strawberry-rhubarb pie-hards but to me it is just too cliché and sickly sweet. The entire point of rhubarb is its tartness, in my opinion. It might not be to everyone's taste, but I have fond memories of dipping stalks into some sugar and gnawing away. This pie is that memory, grown-up and elevated.

Rhubarb Pie (adapted from Joy of Cooking)

• 2 lbs rhubarb stalks, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths, which should measure 5 cups (no metric for you on this 4th of July)
• 1 1/2 cups sugar + 2 tsp
  
• 1/4 cup tapioca or cornstarch (I generally use cornstarch but both work great)
• 2 tsp orange zest (optional but highly recommended)
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 2 tbsp butter
• Milk or cream

Preheat oven to 425˚.
Combine rhubarb with 1 1/2 cups of sugar, tapioca or cornstarch, zest and salt in a large bowl and let sit for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

It should go from this:


to this:


Spoon this filling into your prepared pie crust (again, see this post) and dot with butter before covering with a basic lattice, or this festive variation. You can even do a double crust with vents if you don't want to bother with the occasional frustration of lattice tops, although I think they are worth it. I'm including some photos of a previous plain-old lattice top rhubarb pie which in my mind also screams 'America', if that's what you're going for. Not such a bad idea to double the recipe as it keeps well and makes a nice breakfast.

Once your lattice or top of choice is affixed, brush with cream or milk and dust with sugar. You can crimp the edges with a fork or more creatively.

Bake at 425˚ for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 350˚ and bake 25-30 more minutes until crust is nicely browned and juices are bubbling. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Food Tourism

I've just returned from four days in New York, and while I've been slacking on the cooking front lately for a million reasons, I hope some of these treats will tide you over.

First stop was the Chelsea Market, packed with bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, chocolatiers and seemingly every other tasty thing imaginable.

Usually I am not so enthused about seafood-I get a lot of the good stuff at home, but some of these preparations were truly special and inspiring.


I've kvetched about the inferiority of New York bagels, but this spread I would happily eat on anything, from bagels to saltines.

Picked up some chocolates from Jacques Torres as a small Valentine's Day treat.

Giant jar of Nutella-a treat too large for my suitcase and my budget (ringing in at $70 USD).

Now this is just silly.

Don't worry, "Eternal Flame" is our song.

Carrot cupcake at Billy's. I like baked goods plenty, probably more than most people, but am not totally on board with the cupcake craze. Cupcakes are fine, they just aren't anything special (read: hovering around $5) in my books. I guess with all the hype I was expecting something elevating that would dispel my cupcake doubt, and while this was very good, it was overly sweet and not quite everything I think a cupcake could be. I also stopped by Magnolia for an absurdly rich cheesecake/chocolate cookie cupcake hybrid, which again was good but not great.

Cheeseburger, medium-rare, with the works at the Parker Meridien's Burger Joint. It was everything they (friends, guidebooks) told me it would be. Tucked behind a dark curtain in a decidedly upscale hotel, this burger (and excellent fries) was well worth the wait (about 20 minutes on a holiday Monday afternoon). Made to order, juicy but not soggy, tasting strongly of delicious delicious beef above all the prime condiments, it is a serious contender. Atmosphere behind the curtain is like a casual, lively bar-orders are placed at the counter and yelled out when grilled to near carnivorous perfection. $14 USD for cheeseburger, fries and a Coke. I meant to make it to Shake Shack as well but ran out of time. Next trip.

I've just finished Ruth Reichl's Garlic and Sapphires, an account of her adventures as New York Times food critic, and in another life where I am not a student living below the poverty line I would love nothing more than to retrace some of her mouth-watering steps in the city. Really fantastic; highly recommended.

Yogurt Cheesecake

I'm a bit behind-this is our usual Christmas dinner dessert, but it is good enough that I have requested it for other festive occasions. When I say it is our usual, what I mean is that if my dad were to cease cheesecake production, or make any modifications to this recipe, there would be yuletide mutiny. Originally sourced from the now defunct Peninsula Farms Yogurt cookbook, the key delicious components of this non-traditional cheesecake are a tangy yogurt cheese filling and an Oreo-hazelnut crust. It is a bit of a production-at least one day's head start required to make the yogurt cheese. Dad says, "I use 2 layers of J-cloth in a colander for draining full-fat yogurt... drain on the counter till I've got half the starting weight of whey out of it, stirring from time to time. I'll usually start with 3,000 g." Once you've got your yogurt cheese, you can proceed.

Yogurt Cheese Cake with Hazelnut-Chocolate Crust

• 5 oz hazelnuts, grated (yield: about 1 cup /225 ml)
• 1 1/4 cups "Oreo" type chocolate cookie crumbs
• 3 tbsp sugar
• 3/4 tsp cinnamon
• Chocolate Lovers' option: ADD 1/4 cup cocoa (best possible) OR 1 square grated chocolate, (1 oz/30 g) unsweetened or semisweet baker's chocolate or other high-percentage cocoa dark chocolate
• 2/3 cup melted butter (unsalted preferred)
• pinch of salt if using unsalted butter
• 3 cups yogurt cheese
• 1 pkg cream cheese, softened (8 oz/225 g)
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 1/3 cups sugar (fruit sugar, see note)
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 1 tsp lemon extract
• 1 tsp almond extract
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/3 cup cold water
• 2 packets unflavoured gelatin (so not vegetarian friendly)

The crust:
1. Preheat the oven to 350˚ F.
2. Grind the hazelnuts. I use a small rotary hand grinder. The fresher the nuts the better - a half-pound or so of unshelled nuts will provide enough nutmeats.
3. Combine the nuts, Oreo crumbs, sugar, cinnamon (and extra chocolate if used) in a bowl, and mix well.
4. Add the melted butter and stir well until all is evenly moist.
5. Firmly press the mixture onto the bottom and up the sides of a 10-inch spring-form pan.


6. Bake for ten minutes. Chill thoroughly in fridge. Handle gently.

The filling:
1. Cream together the yogurt cheese, cream cheese, sugar, extracts, and salt. Mix until very smooth.
2. Place the cold water in a very small sauce pan. Sprinkle gelatin onto the surface, stirring well. Place over very low heat and stir constantly until the gelatin is dissolved - when the water reaches lukewarm.
3. Stir the gelatin into the yogurt mix by hand, blending very well.
4. Pour this into the cold crust, jiggle gently to level, and put the cake in the fridge overnight to set up.

Run a very thin knife around the sides before opening the spring-form pan.


Dad's notes:

This cheesecake is quite different in texture from the more familiar NY-style cheesecakes - more like a cream pie or lemon meringue pie than a baked cake.
I've been known to add a 1/2 tsp of ground cardamom to the dry crust ingredients, and I think pecans would be a nice alternative to the hazelnuts. Freshly grated lemon rind can replace the lemon extract.
Note on "fruit" sugar - This very finely ground sugar which dissolves much more quickly in unheated liquids, is sometimes available in supermarkets under various trade names. You can easily make it with a blender from regular granulated sugar. Simply blend it at high speed for a minute or so, using a spatula to help all the sugar get to the blades.

Stollen my heart

My German heritage does not figure prominently in my life-I don't speak it, I've never been, none of my immediate family members were born there. Basically, I'm blonde and have an affinity for beer and clean design. But Christmas is a different story altogether. Every year my dad and I make at least 4 different kinds of traditional German Christmas cookies (coming soon) and stollen. Stollen is a sweet bread (not to be confused with sweetbread), almost the consistency of shortbread that is covered in powdered sugar. This is certainly not a health food, but it's Christmas! Our family version uses raisins (lately Craisins too), currants, candied fruit and almonds.

My dad actually made this before I arrived home (a couple were shipped to my brother and my aunt-loaves also freeze well), so I am grateful to be using his photos and his recipe, as handed down by my great-grandmother. The top of the index card reads ""Like Grandma Retter and Grossmutter Ressel made!" wrote Ilse Zimmer, mother of Peter (my dad), Chris & Julie."

Austrian Stollen (makes 2 loaves)

• 4 tsp quick-rise instant yeast
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 cup lukewarm milk
• 7 egg yolks
• 1 tsp vanilla
• grated rind from 1/2 lemon
• 1/2 cup softened unsalted butter
• 5 cups flour
• 3/4 cup white raisins (substitute Craisins for some or all of this)
• 1/2 cup currants
• 1/4 brandy (or sherry)
• 1 cup mixed diced candied fruit
• 1/3 cup blanched sliced almonds, lightly toasted

1. Combine in a large bowl the eggs, sugar, salt, vanilla, lemon rind and milk. Add yeast and 3 cups flour to make a soft dough. Beat vigourously with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes, let rest 10 minutes or so. Mix in another 2 cups of flour and the softened butter to make a soft and slightly sticky dough.

2. Turn out dough onto a floured board for kneading. Work in just enough flour while kneading so that the dough loses any stickiness, and then knead for at least 10 minutes, until dough is elastic and shiny. Form into a ball.

3. Place in a well-buttered bowl, turning so all surfaces are buttered. Cover with a towel and put in a warm place to double. Punch down, and knead lightly again. [The dough could be refrigerated for 3 or 4 days at this point]

4. Mix fruit and brandy. Let stand for 1 hour, stir from time to time. Drain excess liquid. (I drink it - Yummy! -IZ [my grandmother!]). Knead the fruit and almonds into dough.

5. Butter a large baking sheet very thickly. Cut dough in half. Roll out each piece into an oval 1/2 as large as baking sheet. Fold each oval so that bottom edge extends beyond top. Turn this back to form a small roll and fold. Place both ovals on baking sheet, well apart so that they do not rise and touch while baking. Let rise until puffy. Brush top with melted butter. Bake for 45-50 minutes at 375˚.



6. Remove to racks to cool. Brush tops with butter while warm, and again after they cool. Dust with confectioner's sugar, and repeat before serving.



Sneak slices whenever you can find an excuse to go to the kitchen. They are heavenly toasted with butter, especially on Christmas morning.

Pumpkin Pie and more

These are my confessions: I bought frozen pie crust. And it was okay. It made more sense than buying flour, shortening, a pie plate and a rolling pin. If you are buying frozen pie crust, look for one made with lard, vegetarians be damned. Tenderflake is a good brand.

Now I may have taken shortcuts on the crust, but the filling is totally from scratch, including the pumpkin purée. Canned pumpkin is pretty good and totally suitable for pie, but pumpkins are abundant and cheap right now and roasting them takes very little effort. Buy a pie pumpkin, smaller than jack-o-lantern size. Pre-heat oven to 400˚. Cut in half, remove seeds and stringy bits (save the seeds!) with an ice cream scoop/a spoon/your hands. Smear the fleshy insides with butter, brown sugar, a bit of orange juice and maple syrup. Place halves face down on a baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes, until you can easily pierce the skin with a fork. Let cool and remove skin.

Brown Sugar Pumpkin Pie-adapted from Fine Cooking #35

• 2 - 2 1/2 lb pie pumpkin to yield 2 cups purée (prepare as described above)
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 3 eggs
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp ginger
• 1/2 tsp allspice
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 9 inch pie crust

1. Preheat oven to 375˚. Put the cooked and cooled squash in a food processor if you've got one and purée until smooth. If no food processor like me, whisk vigourously and try to remove any lumps.
2. Combine purée with brown sugar, eggs, cream, spices and salt and whisk until smooth. Pour filling into pie crust and bake until firm, about 50-60 minutes. Let cool before serving.

Notes: I easily got 4 cups of pumpkin from the pie pumpkin I bought, so doubled the recipe for 2 pies. Also, this is epic with whipped cream. Leftovers are totally acceptable breakfast food.


Now what to do with all those seeds? Wash them, remove any stray pumpkin pulp, let them dry on some paper towel and get ready.

Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

• However many pumpkin seeds you have
• 1 glug of oil (I used olive oil)
  
• Salt, to taste

Preheat the oven to 325˚. Add oil to your bowl of seeds and toss to coat. Spread seeds on a cookie sheet and add as much salt as you like. You could also go with a spicy coating perhaps, or garlic. Your choice! Bake approx 45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes until seeds are golden.

We could not stop eating these. They are so simple to make and delicious, crunchy, salty, fatty. They are wonderful.

Blueberry Pudding

I did not make this-for my last supper at home before heading back to a dorm room, my dad made some of my favourites. I'll start by posting possibly my favourite dessert-hot blueberry pudding with cinnamon whipped cream. This comes from my dad's recollection of a Craig Claiborne recipe (he thinks) from many years ago. I am leaving my dad's text as is because it amuses me and I've actually never made this.

Hot Blueberry Pudding with Cinnamon Whipped Cream

• 2 litres (a loaf) of good bread (wholewheat, multi-grain, artisan, ...), crust trimmed, cut into 12 mm/ 1/2" cubes
• 250 gm unsalted butter
• 375 gm sugar
• 1 litre low-bush (wild) blueberries
• 250 ml (1 cup) heavy cream
• strong cinnamon sugar

1. Melt the butter in a large deep sauté pan over medium high heat. When the bubbles have settled add the bread cubes, stirring to coat with butter. Stir regularly until cubes are browning, but not burned.
2. Add the sugar and keep on the heat until the sugar melts and begins to carmelize. ---this can be done a few hours ahead, and the pan & bread set aside. Reheat to soften the sugar ---
3. Turn the heat to high. Add the blueberries to the hot bread cubes, and stir until the berries are heated through.
4. Meanwhile, whip the heavy cream, using cinnamon sugar.
5. Immediately serve into bowls with a good glob of cinnamon whipped cream. Garnish with a sprinkle of ground cinnamon.

NOTES
Sauté the bread and sugar, and whip the cream a few hours before the meal. The final addition and cooking of the berries must be done just before serving.
This is the Zimmer family’s favourite thing for Peter to do with fresh Nova Scotian low-bush wild blueberries. Other times of the year it can be made with thawed frozen wild blueberries- thaw in the fridge for a couple hours.
The large high-bush blueberries don’t have the intensity of flavour of the “wild” low-bush berries from Eastern Canada and New England.

Blueberry Coffee Cake with Lemon Spice Streusel

Do we have any blueberries, I wondered, as I opened the fridge door.
Oh yes. Oh my.

This recipe comes from Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier. Les Dames d'Escoffier are a female culinary association dedicated to the advancement of women in the field. Some of their luminaries include Julia Child, Alice Waters and Dorie Greenspan. This is a collection of their favourite recipes for home cooking, written very accessibly. So you know it's going to be good. I actually took this out of the library but it has quickly moved to #1 on my wishlist. Tons of great recipes along with wine pairings which is crucial for me, because I am absolutely clueless and unsophisticated when it comes to wine. The book is also peppered with personal anecdotes about these women's careers as chefs, restauranteurs, food writers, photographers, caterers, as well as some great kitchen tips. There are very few photos but, hey, I trust them and this cake did not disappoint. Also a way to use up some of the buttermilk I bought for the waffles this past weekend.

Buttermilk Berry Coffee Cake with Lemon Spice Topping
For the cake:

• 1/2 cup butter, room temperature
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 1 2/3 cups flour
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries (frozen works too, could also use raspberries, blackberries, etc.)
• 2 tsp lemon juice

For the streusel:

• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/3 cup flour
• 3/4 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp lemon zest
• 3 tbsp butter, room temperature
  

1. Pre-heat oven to 350˚ and butter a 9-inch springform pan. Cream butter and sugar in large bowl of electric mixer or by hand (check out our old school mixmaster and understand my longing for a KitchenAid).
2. Add the eggs one by one. Beat in the vainlla.
3. Sift together your dry ingredients and alternate adding them and the buttermilk, gradually, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Do not overbeat.
4. Pour half of the batter into pan, and try to make it as level as possible. Toss together lemon juice and blueberries, sprinkle on top and add remaining batter over top.
5. For the streusel, combine dry ingredients in small bowl and cut in the butter until you have a nice crumb-y streusel texture. Sprinkle over top and bake approx 1 hour 10 minutes, checking doneness with a skewer. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 15 minutes. Undo the springform and serve warm or at room temperature.